The low down on chemical peels

A chemical peel can be an effective skin resurfacing method to get rid of age spots, wrinkles and uneven pigmentation.

If you’re chasing the holy grail of younger looking skin and you want immediate impact then you may be thinking about a chemical peel.

A facial chemical peel isn’t something to rush into – peeling off the top layer of your skin will hurt and has consequences. But facial peels are not all the same – they come in different strengths and use different chemicals depending on the level of skin aging and what your cosmetic surgeon is trying to achieve.

Large areas of hyperpigmentation, age spots and deep wrinkles will need a more radical approach than less severe sun damage and fine wrinkles.

The lowest level peel uses Alphahydroxy Acids or AHA’s, glycolic, lactic or fruit acids. This is the mildest of the peel formulas useful for improving skin texture, assisting with acne issues and correcting localised pigmentation problems like age spots

If you have finer lines and wrinkles then your cosmetic surgeon may recommend a medium facial peel based on Trichloroacetic Acids or TCA’s. TCA’s are the most commonly used facial peel for skin rejuvenation but they also work on correcting minor pigment issues, and less prominent skin blemishes.

A phenol based facial peel will only be used for deep or coarse wrinkles and for severely sun damaged skin. Phenol facial peels may also be used for pre-cancerous skin. Results from phenol peels are most dramatic and long lasting. Permanent changes to the skin will occur which will probably include skin lightening and intense sensitivity to sunlight.

Light to medium peels are the ones most commonly offered and phenol peels are quite rare. But you need to talk to a qualified cosmetic plastic surgeon at the cosmetic surgery clinic to make sure the peel chosen is right for you and works best for your skin type.

Most skin types are suitable for a facial peel. However, if you have sensitive skin or have a darker complexion, ask your cosmetic surgeon about the results that you can expect. The exact formula of a chemical peel can be adjusted by your doctor to make sure the treatment matches your skin type and your skin problem.

Depending on the type of peel you are having you may be asked to apply a high strength retinol cream or an AHA cream to your skin before you have your facial peel.

For blotchy skin or pigmentation issues like age spots, you may be asked to apply a bleaching agent before your facial chemical peel. You may need to do this for as long as one month beforehand depending on the advice of your clinic.

A facial chemical peel is not as painful as face lift surgery but applying a high strength chemical solution to your face is not a comfortable procedure to go through. If you have a low pain threshold ask about anesthetics and if you get nervous find out whether sedatives are offered.

Be prepared for considerable discomfort after your chemical peel. Skin will feel tender and painful to the touch and you can expect swelling, dryness, flakiness, scaling, peeling and scabbing. The chemical used will have destroyed the top layer of your skin which will die back and fall off exposing the new younger looking skin underneath.

How your own skin reacts will depend on the depth and strength of the peel and the state of your skin. Ask to look at photos of treatments from past patients – or talk to someone who has had the same process.

AHAs are the simplest of the chemical peels and can be done over a lunch hour, since there is no need for extended recovery time. TCAs may require a little more rest and recouperation at home and phenols will require the most extended recovery time which will probably include time off work.

Any of the three strengths of chemical peels will mean your skin is much more sensitve to the sun. For TCA and phenol facial peels you will be advised to avoid sun exposure completely for a period of time. Phenol peels rob the skin of its ability to make pigment and this will be a permanent change. As a result, your skin will be highly susceptible to sun damage for the rest of your life with the need to wear high SPF at all times.

You may be concerned about chemical peel side effects. The deeper the peel, the higher the risk of side effects. Even though TCA is a lighter peel than a phenol peel, unintended color changes can occur in your skin. Phenol can cause uneven pigment changes. There are gentler phenol peels available if the risk of this is a concern. Phenol peels can also pose a special risk for anyone with a history of heart disease and it is important that you tell your cosmetic surgeon of any such problems before treatment is started.

Generally though a chemical peel should not be dangerous provided you use a competent cosmetic plastic surgeon or suitably qualified and experienced technician.

And don’t forget that a chemical peel can’t magically give you younger looking skin – forever.